CUTTING AND SEWING BASICS;
Measure existing pillow with a tape measure, between the welts. The first measurement is up and down. Second is side to side. We'll be using 1/2" seams on most articles in our series, so, add 1" to your measurements to get the cut size. Figure the length of the welt cord. It can be 1 1/2-2" wide, it doesn't have to be exact. Cut the welt material on the bias, that is, diagonally. This will prevent "snaking" or twisting by making the welt fabric more flexible.
Notice the fabric we're using is railroaded, that is, the pattern is run up the roll. It doesn't matter much for a pillow or even a chair but if we were covering a sofa, this fabric could run the entire length of the inside back (IB), outside back (OB), or seat without having to be pieced.
Most upholstery weight fabrics are about 54" wide. We have a 60" wide table by 7' and use a 60" ruler. Most fabrics seem to come cut crooked, so use a framer's square to even out the beginning of the material. Mark with chalk and cut out the 2 fabric squares (plates). Put a"T" on the top so you won't get confused when you get to the sewing machine. Mark everything that you cut, (or you'll be sorry) even the backside of the welt.
Make sure both plates are the same size by laying them face to face and trim where nesassary. Due to the warp and woof properties of fabric they will often pull to one direction or the other even though you may have cut them exactly the same measurements. The plates have to be the same or the corners won't line up. Add a bow to the fabric (as in above photo). Start with about an 1/2" and taper off to nothing in about 4" or 5". See the scrap above the sissors. The bow makes up for the dip (like rabbit ears) that you would see in the filled pillow if cut straight across . Shape all four corners this way on a pillow that you're going to close by hand but not on the bottom of one that gets a zipper.
We use an industrial upholstery machine which features a walking foot and reverse. It takes large prewound bobbins which saves a lot of time. For most jobs we use #16 polyester top thread and bobbins. Three basic colors are necessary: black, white, and beaver (a neutral beige). It's good to have a spool of clear thread on hand, especially for top stitching when you don't have the right color.
Here's picture of a walking foot. This is a zipper foot which I use for most sewing jobs. I've ground the left side of it down a little so I get really close to the welt.
If your welt material is in more than one piece join them now with a 1/2" seam and back stitch or sew twice if necessary. We mostly use 5/32 jute welt cord. Fold the welt fabric around the cord and begin sewing either on the side or bottom of one plate. Never start, end or piece the welt fabric on the top of a pillow or front of a cushion. Use 1/2" seams. The seam (1/2") is the distance from where the needle enters the plate to the ouside of the plate. Get close to the welt, learn to feel for the cord inside with your finger tips. But be carefull, of course, of your fingers when sewing.
Two or three inches before the corners, stop, leaving the needle in the fabric to secure it, and make 3 cuts to help release the welt fabric to easily make the turn. Make one cut directly across from the plate corner and one before that point and one after. Again, stop sewing when your needle has come to the spot directly across from the plate corner, leave the needle in and lift the foot. Slightly crimp the welt as you turn the plate for the next side.
Finish off sewing the welt by butting the cord ends together and lapping the welt material at least 1/2" to 3/4". We leave no raw edges on any job with the sometimes exception of when we're using vinyl.
Be carefull to keep the seam even and close to the welt cord. If you'd like to have a zipper in your project then go now to, "How To Install A Zipper In A Pillow".
If you're going to hand sew your project, place the plate with the welt already sewn, on top of the second plate and line up the corners. Leave just enough space at the bottom to insert the filling. If you installed a zipper start at the corner and back stitch a few stitches. Sew on top of or just to the left of the the previous line of thread. Try sewing a pillow with contrasting thread to test yourself. The thread shouldn't show when you turn the pillow right side out. You can fill the pillow with a pre-made form of down or kapok or make your own . We make a cover of quilted polyester by stapling the sides and fill with leftover loose polyester from wrapping cushions. See, "How To Hand Sew" to finish off your pillow.
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